Philco 3118B
"Before"
"After"
Brand: Philco Radio &
Telev. Corp. Year Of Manufacture: 1935 Frequency Range(s): 540 - 1750KC, 4.2 - 12.0 MC
Tube lineup: 80
Rectifier, (2X) 42 PP Output, 42 Driver, 75
2nd Det/1st I.F., 78 I.F., 6A7
1St Det/Osc, 78 R.F.
Schematic: Available here,
courtesy of Nostalgia Air.
Philco
model 118 ( US Version ).
In January 2006, Ron
Ramirez of Philcoradio.com,
was downsizing his
collection, and his items for sale would be listed on ebay. Browsing
though his listings, several of the radios had a certain appeal to me,
sort of like a moth flying into a bright light....ZAP! Dang the luck,
I ended buying this radio, a Philco 59C,
and a Philco 38-116. So
I spent a nice frigid February day making the two hour drive to
Evansville to pick them up.
As for the condition, this one was past being a
parts set since someone had already parted it out! When the radio was
picked up, it was in the exact condition that Ron had used to describe
it, bad! Most noticeably were the missing parts, which included the
speaker/output transformer, shadow meter, all of the tubes, tube
shields, knobs, and the grill cloth backing. Damage included several
holes drill on the front panel, chassis rust, and the original finish
was beyond salvage. A little bit of research revealed that this was an
export model, and was only sold in Canada, which makes it
quite rare in the United States. The chassis is the same as a US model
118.
Despite the drawbacks and advice from other
collectors, this radio was going to receive a full restoration, using
whatever means and resources it took to do it correctly. Below center: A rear view of the radio
before restoration.
Electronic Restoration
The first steps to take
on a project like this was track down the missing parts. The missing
shadow meter was going to be a tough one. I sent an inquiry to Play Things Of Past about the
missing parts. As luck would have it, they had the exact original
shadow meter for this radio, so I had that and the tubes out of the
way. The next task was to find a speaker. I tried several sources to no
avail. By another batch of luck, Mark Oppat had a original
Philco speaker in stock, of the same dimensions and field coil size.
That left the audio output transformer, which was replaced using a
Hammond 125 series universal push pull type, available from Radiodaze.
With those out of the way, it was time to begin
repairs. The chassis was covered in dust, with a tad bit of rust mixed
in. Using a vacuum and a brush, the loose dirt was cleaned off. The
rest of the chassis looked ok, but rusted transformers stuck out pretty
bad. They were lightly sanded, and repainted black with a clear coat of
lacquer. Below two photos: The
chassis before restoration began.
With a schematic on
hand, it was time to dig into the electronics. The first things to be
replaced were the electrolytic capacitors, and a new cloth covered cord
was installed. While replacing the cord, a 1 amp fuse was installed on
the hot lead for protection. At this time the shadow meter was also
rewired into the circuit. The radio was then carefully powered up. I
could hear a slight buzz, but the radio was for the most part dead. It
was verified in the first power up that the power supply and audio
output sections were working, so it was time to replace the remaining
capacitors. This radio uses several of the capacitors enclosed in
Bakelite type blocks, and sealed with a black tar like substance. These
too had to be replaced. The Bakelite blocks were
heated using a heat gun, the tar and old capacitors were removed,
and modern replacements were installed inside of the blocks.
There were a few tubular type capacitors, which were restuffed to
maintain the original appearance. Several resistors along the way were
found to out of tolerance, so they were replaced with modern carbon
types.
To minimize potential mistakes, the radio was
retested after each capacitor replacement. When there was only one
Bakelite block to restuff, the radio was still for the most part dead,
not a good thing! After the final capacitor was replaced, it sprang to
life with clear reception and loud volume, go figure! The rubber
grommets that the tuning capacitor mount to were completely gone. There
were reproduced using some junk rubber parts from my parts bin. Next a
wiring harness and plug were made for the speaker. The speaker plug on
the back of the chassis was the same configuration as four pin type
tubes, and luckily I had a four pin plug in my parts stock to use. Below center: The repaired chassis and
replacement speaker.
While the radio was
working quite well, the shadower meter was not. I was able to get a
decent shadow by adjusting the lamp mounted on the back of the unit.
Even with a strong signal, the movement was not very much. A little bit
of reading revealed that a bad shunt resistor could be the cause. Wait
a minuet...The original shunt resistor had been cut out of the circuit
in my radio!
My radio required a 2900 ohm replacement. Once this was wired in, the
shadow meter was working good. The final step was an alignment, which
made the meter work even better. Below
center: The completed radio installed in the cabinet in fall 2009 after
repairs, over two years after the initial restoration.
The missing tube
shields were eventually found and purchased from Play Things Of Past. The
original rubber chassis washers on the corners were all long gone. Some
reproductions were purchased from Renovated
Radios.
Cosmetic Restoration
As
seen in the "before" photo at the top of this page, the cabinet had
several major flaws. The original finish was trashed, not to mention a
dozen or so holes had been drilled in the front panel. Some scrubbing
pads, lacquer thinner, and rubber gloves were used to remove the
remaining original finish. Beforehand, several photos were taken of the
cabinet so the color scheme could be reproduced. The veneer was in very
good shape despite the condition of the rest of the radio. I only knew
of two options to fix the front panel. Either replace the whole sheet
of veneer or just fill in the holes with wood filler and tone them to
match the rest of the wood. I opted for the second choice as my veneer
cutting skills are not the best. Below
photos: Left: the cabinet before being refinished, Right: The chipped
escutcheon.
Once the cabinet was stripped, different sections were masked off to be
toned. The most difficult part was toning the grill bars. It took me a
few times to achieve good results. The whole cabinet was then coated
with clear lacquer. The black plastic escutcheon had several big chips
in it, most noticeably where you looked through to see the dial and
shadow meter. Automotive Bondo was used to fill in the missing pieces,
and sanded down to the original form. The whole escutcheon was then
coated with black lacquer. Below
photo: The refinished cabinet.
The original grill cloth backing was missing, but
some nice reproduction cloth had been tacked into the cabinet. A new
backing was made using some 1/4" fiber board. When I first restored
this radio in 2007, I used the grille cloth that had come with the
radio. I eventually would replace this with the correct type for a
Philco model 118. The final step was finding some
replacement knobs. A complete set was found at Vintage Electronics.
Final
Thoughts
This
radio was definitely worth the initial $22.50 that I paid for it. It
took well over a year to track down the missing parts, and around a
month and a half to restore. Total costs are estimated at somewhere
between $100 and $130.00, not bad for a completely restored Philco
tombstone. Performance is excellent with the push/pull amp delivering
powerful and clear sound. Being a great sounding receiver, this one is
played often in my radio room.